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December 02, 2022


“機能性フレグランス "の謎に迫る

Inside the Murky World of "Functional Fragrance"


Spritzing on perfumes that aim to boost your mood can feel like a convenient quick fix, but the science behind the claims remains shaky.



January 27, 2022

This fall, Addison Rae did what many celebrities and influencers have done before and launched a perfume line. The three perfumes have a slight twist from other celeb launches, however; her Happy AF, Chill AF, and Hyped AF are on trend not just for their slangy names but also because they tout ingredients that promise to "boost your mood."

この秋、tiktokスターアディソン・レイはこれまで多くのセレブやインフルエンサーが行ってきたことを行い、香水ラインを立ち上げた。彼女のHappy AF、Chill AF、Hyped AFの3つの香水は、そのスラング的な名前だけでなく、"気分を高める "ことを約束する成分を売り物にしているので、他のセレブの発売とは少しひねりが効いています。

Rae is not the only one to think fragrance consumers are after more than just smelling good. In 2019, the beauty supplement company The Nue Co launched its Functional Fragrance, a blend of palo santo, violet, and cardamom that promises to reduce stress, followed by Forest Lungs in 2020 and Mind Energy in 2021, which aim to produce some of the same health benefits associated with forest bathing and boost focus, respectively. Since 2016, natural perfume brand Heretic has incorporated wellness into its storytelling, including its September launch Dirty Hinoki, described as a "grounding" scent inspired by hinoki's potential ability to alleviate depression.

フレグランスの消費者が求めているのは、単に良い香りだけではないと考えるのは、レイだけではない。2019年には、英国美容サプリメント会社のTHE NUE CO.(ザ・ニュウコー)が、パロサント、バイオレット、カルダモンをブレンドし、ストレス軽減を約束する「Functional Fragrance機能性フレグランス」を発売し、2020年には「Forest Lungs」、2021年には、森林浴に伴う健康効果と集中力アップをそれぞれ目指す「Mind Energy」を発売している。2016年以降、自然派香水ブランドのヘレティックパルファムは、9月に発売した「ダーティヒノキ」を含め、ウェルネスをストーリーテリングに取り入れており、ヒノキの鬱を緩和する潜在能力にインスピレーションを得た「グラウンディング」の香りと表現しています。

ダーティ ヒノキ|汚れたヒノキ ? 香水通販 NOSE SHOP

The growing slate of mood-boosting fragrances represents not just a demand for a wide array of "wellness" products, with everything from bath bombs to oat milk promising such effects, but also consumers’ changing relationship to perfume. "Perfume for the longest time was really the attainable luxury end of a luxury brand," says Douglas Little, founder of and perfumer for Heretic. "And now I really think that that ideology for a certain group of people has faded, and the idea that the fragrance is made from better materials and it also, by the way, can help you relax, I think this is really the next wave of what we're seeing in personal wellness."

気分を高揚させるフレグランスが増えているのは、バスボムからオーツミルクまで、さまざまな「ウェルネス」商品への需要が高まっていることだけでなく、消費者の香水との関係の変化も表している。「香水は長い間、ラグジュアリーブランドの中でも手に入れやすい高級品でした」と、ヘレティックの創設者で調香師のDouglas Little氏は言います。「香水は、より良い素材から作られ、リラックス効果もあるという考え方は、パーソナル・ウェルネスに見られる次の波だと思います。

The market for wellness products is in of itself nothing new, says C?line Manetta, senior consumer science manager at International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. (IFF). But what's changed in recent years, and especially with the COVID-19 pandemic, is the acceleration of demand for new products that address all aspects of life. "It's really 24/7 wellness. It's a continuous search for positive emotion," Manetta says. Fragrance is just the tip of the iceberg; an April 2021 report from consulting company, McKinsey, estimates the global wellness market to be worth more than $1.5 trillion, with 42 percent of consumers in their survey reporting wellness to be a top priority.


Enter Aromachology


That opens up an opportunity for fragrance developers like IFF to further their research into aromachology, the study of aromas on human behavior and emotion (aromatherapy, though similar, focuses exclusively on the use of natural essential oils for therapeutic purposes). This spring, IFF launched its Science of Wellness program to create scents that can purportedly aid in relaxation or boost energy. In recent years, Givaudan has developed new wellness-oriented technologies like DreamScentz, which uses fragrance aimed at enhancing sleep. Studies outside the fragrance world have also investigated fragrance's health benefits, with studies finding for example that linalool, found in lavender essential oil, may ease anxiety.


The Two Keys to Mastering the No-Makeup Look


Givaudan's launches and other developments give perfumers a new palette of wellness ingredients to incorporate into their formulas. An eau de parfum can feature dozens of ingredients, however, with up to 80 percent of a given formulation composed of alcohol. What matters though, according to Juliette Karagueuzoglou, senior perfumer at IFF who has made fragrances for the likes of Yves Saint Laurent and L'Artisan Parfumeur, is not the quantity of a wellness ingredient, but that you register its smell. "What is important is that, since you can smell it, since it is noticeable olfactively, you have the effect, because the impact is the smell on your brain," she says.


Manetta emphasizes though that regardless of any potential benefits, perfume is not a cure-all. "In perfumery, we are more talking about positive emotions, instead of anti-anxiety or anti-stress claims, because we are not drugs, we are not medicine."


A Search for Medical Alternatives


But the fact that they are not drugs is specifically what makes "functional fragrance," or any wellness-oriented product, appealing to some. "Modern medicine has been wonderful and life saving, but there are real gaps there still. And so, in general, people look for other things that they can do themselves," says psychologist Traci Stein, PhD, MPH. A beauty product like perfume that can be picked up for $40 without insurance or doctor intervention offers an attractive way to fill that gap at a time when four in 10 U.S. adults report they are struggling with symptoms of anxiety or depression. "I think people like having products that promise very quick results, and that don't require a doctor to step in and prescribe something," says Dr. Stein, who has written about the benefits of aromatherapy, but is cautious to label aromatherapy’s benefits as "proven," as research is not yet definitive.

しかし、薬ではないという事実が、特に「機能性フレグランス」、あるいはウェルネス志向の製品を魅力的にしているのです。「現代医学は素晴らしいもので、命を救ってくれるものですが、そこにはまだ本当のギャップがあります。と、一般的に、人々 は自分自身で出来る他のものを探して」心理学者 Traci Stein、博士、MPH は言います。米国の成人の10人に4人が不安や鬱の症状に苦しんでいると報告されている今、保険や医師の介入なしに40ドルで手に入る香水のような美容製品は、そのギャップを埋める魅力的な方法なのです。「スタイン博士は、アロマセラピーの効果について書いたことがありますが、研究がまだ確定的でないため、アロマセラピーの効果を「実証済み」とすることには慎重です。

However, consumers are not always aware of the limitations of aroma compounds, and "somebody who's going to seek out these [wellness] fragrances, who does have a real problem, may erroneously believe that they're likely to have a bigger effect," Dr. Stein says.


Behind the Claims


The often vague language used to describe the science behind these fragrances can also cause confusion for a nonexpert. Addison Rae’s fragrances contain "ingredients that have scored well on emotional responses," but it's hard to parse out the scientific meaning of that on its surface. According to Lori Mariano, managing partner at Hampton Beauty, which partnered with Addison Rae to develop the scents, this information came from their collaboration with the research and development team at fragrance company, Symrise: "[They] work[ed] with neuroscience experts to track and validate emotional responses based on brain activity upon smelling individual proprietary ingredients used in the fragrance formulations.”

これらのフレグランスの背後にある科学を説明するために使用される多くの曖昧な言葉も、専門家ではない人を混乱させる可能性がありますアディソン・レイのフレグランスには、「感情的な反応に対して良いスコアを出した成分」が含まれていますが、その科学的な意味を表面的に解析するのは困難です。アディソン・レイと提携して香りを開発した Hampton Beauty のマネージング パートナー、Lori Mariano によると、この情報は、ドイツの香料会社シムライズの研究開発チームとのコラボレーションから生まれた: “神経科学の専門家と一緒に、香料配合に使用される個々の独自の成分の香りを嗅いだときの脳活動に基づく感情的反応を追跡、検証することに取り組みました。"

On the other hand, sometimes a claim is specific, but the research behind it appears to come from the company itself. For example, "research conducted by The Nue Co" found a whopping 96 percent of its Functional Fragrance customers felt "instantly calmer" after using the product. When research on a product isn't conducted by an independent party, it can present a conflict of interest, notes Dr. Stein. [We've reached out to The Nue Co about their methodology and will update this article when we hear back.]

一方、宣伝文句が具体的であるにもかかわらず、その背景にある研究が企業自身のものであるかのように見えることがあります。例えば、「The Nue Coが行った調査」によると、同社の機能性フレグランスの顧客の実に96%が、その製品を使用した後に「瞬時に落ち着く」と感じていることが判明しました。製品の研究が独立した第三者によって行われていない場合、利害の対立が生じる可能性があると、スタイン博士は指摘しています。[私たちはThe Nue Coにその方法論について問い合わせたので、返事が来たらこの記事を更新します]。

"There's a lot of money to be made by being aware of people's desires to have control over their care."


"These things are pleasurable, and it feels like we're taking good care of ourselves," Dr. Stein adds. “And there's nothing wrong with that. I think companies are aware though, that there's a lot of money to be made by being aware of people's desires to have control over their care and to feel better right away.”


And it’s not just perfume: Beauty products as a whole are now promising a more holistic experience that is less about looking attractive and more about feeling good. In the case of perfume, that’s a marked shift from how the product has been marketed in recent years. "I would say it's going back to the origins of perfume, linking the perfume to wellbeing and other roles that are far from the sexy, social role that we are used to bringing to the perfume," Manetta says.


Fragrance has always sold a fantasy, and the fantasy of feeling good may certainly be more appealing than that of trying to fit a narrow beauty ideal. But, as with pretty much any product in the wellness industrial complex, the functional fragrance category is susceptible to overpromising.



IFF’s scent division has launched its Science of Wellness program to address consumer desires for a more holistic approach to well-being.


The program is designed to guide the creation of scents that support science-based consumer well-being, with emotional, cognitive and physical benefits. This includes scents that evoke happiness, relaxation, mindfulness and self-esteem.


IFF Science of Wellness is an integrated solution, combining 40 years of human conscious and unconscious measures, neurosciences, artificial intelligence and IFF ingredients.

Nicolas Mirzayantz, president, Scent, said, “IFF has a long history of research into the effects of fragrance on consumer wellness and emotions, along with an AI exploration initiated in 2006. Combining the results of these ongoing studies with the AI unique capabilities, a 15-year pioneer, is allowing our perfumers to awaken emotions and move into territories that we believe are more exciting and relevant for our customers and consumers alike. By pulling together our research, ingredients and technologies into one program, we are expanding our ability to serve growing consumer demand for wellness solutions."



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